Vaitahu, Tahuata Island and Hiva-Oa

From the island of Fatu Hiva, we made our way back towards Hiva-Oa making a brief stop at Vaitahu Bay on Tahuata. We had planned to go ashore but because of what the guidebook described as wind bullets, we did not. Instead, we picked up the anchor after just one night and headed over to Hanaiapa Bay on the north side of Hiva-Oa. We spent a couple of nights anchored in Hanaiapa Bay. It was lovely. The water was clear and warm and the people in the community were warm as well.

As Sharlene and I walked into the village a man called us over to a table he had set up. He offered us a drink of coconut water and then asked us to sign his guestbook. The village itself was picturesque as it was nestled between the water, and mountains on all sides. Like everywhere we’ve been in the Marquesas the village was immaculately cared for. People’s homes were simple yet very well maintained and cared for.

Nuku-Hiva

From Hanaiapa we made an overnight passage to Nuku-Hiva. Taiohae Bay on Nuku-Hiva is the major population center on the island. It was where my brother, Mike, was to catch his flight home to Canada and where we needed to do some provisioning before heading to the Tuamotus Islands. I went to Nuku-Hiva thinking it was a stop to get things done but ended up being pleasantly surprised that it was also beautiful with generous people and many good anchorages to explore.

Michael Not Mike

When in Nuku-Hiva we hiked to The Gazebo. It is a steep hike to a lookout called The Gazebo. From the Gazebo one has magnificent views of the harbour as well as the island’s southern coast. At the gazebo we met Michael–not to be confused with my brother, Mike.

Michael asked me to take his photo which as you can see, I did. Michael is the Marquesan equivalent of a mountain man. After taking some photos we talked a little bit about life on Nuku-Hiva. He said there were few jobs on the island but that he didn’t need a job. He gets what he needs from the sea and the mountains. Each day he goes fishing and only takes what he needs for that day. What he doesn’t get from the sea he can get from the mountains. I believe him. He’s tough. As you can see in the photos, he wore no shirt or shoes. The trail to the Gazebo was rough and rocky but it didn’t seem to bother him.

After taking the photos I asked him if he had email so I could send him the photos. He did not. He looked over my shoulder at the photos and that was enough. He wasn’t interested in having copies.

Bernadette

We have found the Marquesan people to be most warm and welcoming. It’s refreshing considering they rely on the tourism industry for much of the islands’ income. I am from a city where tourists are needed but they are not always appreciated–more endured than appreciated. I didn’t feel like I was being endured in the Marquesas.

One morning as we walked along one of the streets in Taiohae, Bernadette waved to Sharlene and beckoned her over. She was working in her yard and she said she wanted to give us some mangoes. She said she had too many. She ducked inside her home and emerged with glasses and a bottle of her ice-cold mango juice. It was delicious. I had bought a bucket earlier that morning. She proceeded to fill it and a shopping bag with mangoes, cucumbers and passion fruit. We visited for a time and then before we left, she gave us a stalk of bananas to add to what we already had. She wanted to give us some pommecythére but they need to be picked so she asked us to return the next day which we did.

When we arrived, she had a huge bucket of pommecythére ready for us as well as two jars her homemade banana preserve. Also, she had baked a banana pie and made us lunch!

Sharlene had baked some cookies for Bernadette. She loved them and asked for the recipe. She plans to bake them and sell them locally. The recipe is one that my mom used to make. They are called Cowboy Cookies. They were a family favourite growing up and are a favourite of our kids too. Perhaps they will become of favourite among some families on Nuku-Hiva too.

Sharlene and I have travelled a lot over the years. Encounters like this don’t happen often. We will remember Bernadette and her generosity for years to come.

So Long Mike

My brother, Mike, left us in Nuku-Hiva. He joined us in early March. We all thought he was joining us for the passage across the Pacific but he did so much more. His enthusiasm was infectious as we completed a number of jobs and made our preparations for the passage. Thankfully he had some time once we arrived in the Marquesas to see some of the islands before he headed home. Thanks, Mike, for everything!