193

Late one afternoon while in Rotoava, we went ashore for a walk. Rotoava is on Fakarava in the Tuamotus. We happened upon a commemoration ceremony of the 193 Association. The 193 Association strives to remember those that have died from radiation poisoning caused by the 193 nuclear tests the French Government conducted on remote Tuamotus atolls. Also, they strive to bring justice to those that are still living with the effects of the nuclear testing. The Tuamotus have high rates of cancers associated with radiation exposure.

The French military conducted 193 nuclear tests–33 were atmospheric–between 1966 and 1996.¹ New analysis of the tests suggests they grossly underestimated the effects of the tests and the people that were harmed. Few people have been compensated for the damage done. Many are still trying to be recognized.

The commemoration started near the town’s harbour. From there, people walked quietly a few hundred meters along the coast road to the 193 memorial. It was a somber yet relaxed and friendly affair. There were a few speeches. Some people were asked to share their stories. Photographs were taken and then some food was shared. The people were very kind and open to our being there. After all, we were just a couple of sailors out for a walk. Even so, several people explained, in English, what was happening and why. Others offered us food and something to drink. We found it moving considering how many tourists they see on the island and yet they were kind and generous.

I was reminded of this event just when we were in Papeete. Sharlene and I were on a bus. Sharlene had an appointment so she asked the bus driver which stop was nearest to her appointment. An older woman sitting behind the driver heard Sharlene’s question and said she was going somewhere close to Sharlene’s appointment. She said to get off the bus when she got off, which we did.

Once on the sidewalk the woman said she needed to go the same way as Sharlene so they could walk together. I left them and went off to do some other errands. Later, Sharlene told me that the woman is from Fakarava. She comes to Papeete for medical treatment. She has cancer. Sharlene asked if her cancer was from the nuclear testing. She said yes. She flies to Papeete for treatment. She receives no compensation. Her cancer, like so many others, is not recognized as caused by the nuclear testing.

1. As a Canadian, I remember the testing because of the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior. In 1985 the Rainbow Warrior was a Canadian registered ship in Auckland Harbour preparing to sail to the testing area to protest. The French military planted a bomb on the ship and sunk it while it was in Auckland. One person on board was killed. You can learn more here. ↩︎